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Though most of the t-shirts are luxurious t-shirts from Sunspel, that luxury doesn’t translate to an appropriate look for Bond. In the t-shirts he doesn’t look like he’s just getting started, he looks like he has given up. The dinner jacket and its corresponding dress shirt are some of the best in the series. The film stresses the importance of this outfit, and Lindy Hemming came up with a truly exceptional look. With the last two suits, Craig wears the John Lobb ‘Romsey’ plain-toe two-eyelet chukka boots in black calf. This is a beautiful boot that has more than enough grace to pair with a smart suit.
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Short-sleeve shirts again are a poor style choice, but it’s a Fleming Bond detail so in that manner it can be excused. It portrays Bond as a novice suit wearer, which makes sense in the context of the story. He does not wear a tie, which is an effective choice with a casual linen suit. They’re a rare occurrence of Bond wearing brown shoes with a navy suit, but they work perfectly here.
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Brosnan’s suits mostly had double vents, and it’s odd that wasn’t continued for Craig. The first suit in Casino Royale stands apart from the rest in the film, being made in England rather than Brioni. This navy linen suit, worn for the toilet fight and a cut scene in Pakistan, is difficult to see in the film and difficult to properly judge. It has a trendy mid 2000s English cut, with two buttons in a high stance and sporty details like swelled edges. The suit is difficult to judge on Craig because he’s always moving and wears the jacket unbuttoned. It looks good for how it moves in the film and for placing Bond in a suit for the makeshift gun barrel sequence.
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Other than the first suit, the rest of the suits are made by Brioni, all in the same cut. The jackets have the same cut as a the dinner jacket, but with three buttons on the front in a medium stance. Medium-width high-gorge lapels roll just through the top button, showing the button but opening the jacket down to the middle button.
There are some brilliant looks in Casino Royale, like the dinner jacket, the Sunspel Riviera polo, the blue swim trunks, the navy raincoat, the barleycorn topcoat. There’s little to suggest that Bond’s appreciation for fine clothes—and three-piece suits—should have come from his first mission as a Double-O . The symbolism in the wardrobe is too heavy handed, even if it resulted in a number of exceptional outfits.
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Before Casino Royale, baggy board shorts had been the popular style of men’s swimwear. Lindy Hemming wanted to show off Craig’s physique, so she put him in trim swim trunks with little coverage and turned him into a sex symbol in a way James Bond never was before. They are the most effective outfit for showing off Craig’s physique, though his polos and t-shirts also excel at this. These trunks changed men’s swim fashions for the better, if only for practical reasons. The outfit is difficult to see because of the dim lighting, dramatic camera angles and black-and-white colouring, but it’s a wonderful choice for a rookie James Bond who isn’t yet a Double-O. In the navy, the pea coat is worn by younger sailors as opposed to officers, so it’s perfect for portraying a less mature version of Bond.
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A dark t-shirt is visible under the cardigan, which would slightly detract from the look if it were more visible. The three smarter suits are worn with Brioni shirts that have a semi-spread collar and double cuffs. The collars sit slightly too high on Craig’s neck, encroaching on his Adam’s apple.
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When Bond returns to the Bahamas he’s wearing a navy polo from Sunspel in their ‘Riviera’ mesh. This is one of the best looks of the film, especially due to how it revived the polo from the Connery era and defined it as a staple of Craig’s Bond wardrobe. The updated trim fit turned the polo into a fresh look, while the unique mesh knit with a self collar instead of a ribbed collar also removed many of the garment’s stodgy connotations. The trousers’ cut represents a short-lived trend for men that doesn’t hold up well now, but it doesn’t detract from the polo’s brilliance. Light blue swim trunks are a Connery Bond classic that return to the series in a fresh way.
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